El Entorno

El Albaicín. Granada.

Un barrio con mucho sabor

Barrio del Albaicín

Cuando cae la tarde

Una hora antes de que se ponga el sol, te vamos a guiar a través de calles medievales, apacibles, sin apenas coches, suelos empedrados, aljibes y cármenes (casas de muros altos con jardín interior. Estamos en una de las colinas que miran a la Alhambra y esto te va a encantar.

Bienvenidos al Albaicín, el antiguo barrio musulmán de Granada y declarado Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad por la Unesco, que mantiene el trazado urbano de la época nazarí, desde su parte más baja, en torno a la calle Elvira, hasta su cima, en San Nicolás. Para recorrerlo toma como punto de partida la puerta de Elvira, desde la que accederás a la cuesta de Alhacaba, contemplando las murallas de la alcazaba Cadima hasta su fin, la iglesia de San Salvador. Estás a unos pasos de uno de los enclaves más famosos del mundo.

El atardecer sobre la Alhambra visto desde el mirador de San Nicolás es difícil de olvidar. Y eso, a pesar de la cantidad de gente que se arremolina a la hora mágica. Vale la pena. Como lo vale también descubrir nuevos sitios. Desde el mirador de San Cristóbal la panorámica se amplía con el palacio de Dar-al-Horra, Sierra Nevada y el Suspiro del Moro, donde Boabdil, el último rey nazarí lloró camino del exilio. A nosotros nos gusta también el mirador de la Lona, desde el que se divisa la ciudad. Justo detrás está la plaza de San Miguel Bajo, muy animada, con bares como el Lara, y terrazas donde disfrutar de dos reclamos muy andaluces: sol y tapas.

A pesar de que muchos opinan que el Albaicín se ve mejor desde fuera que por dentro –desde el mirador de Daraxa, en la Alhambra, por ejemplo–, ¿necesitas más excusas para visitarlo? Ahí va otra: la peña la Platería (plaza Toqueros, 7. 958 21 06 50), el lugar donde a los granadinos les gusta escuchar el mejor flamenco. Anota: todos los jueves, a partir de las 22.30 h, actuaciones en directo.

¿Un vino o un té?

Y, de nuevo, otra ruta de tapas. Desde la plaza Nueva parte la calle Elvira: hasta arriba a la hora del aperitivo y también de noche. Da igual el sitio en que te metas. Cualquier dirección es buena: El Espejo, Taberna Salinas, Europa II y Antigua Bodega Castañeda (Elvira, 5), una tasca del siglo pasado donde aún sirven vinos de tonel. Una copita de palo cortado o un moscatel: 1,90 €.

Desde esta calle parten otras dos: Calderería Nueva y Calderería Vieja, tomadas casi por entero por teterías –¡imposible decidirse por una!– y pastelerías como Natura Morisca (Calderería Vieja, 12) donde venden tés morunos y dulces: ka’ab (cuernos de gacela), gurbía de dátiles y pastas de sésamo (1,20 €). También abundan en este triángulo bazares árabes y tiendas artesanas como Ardentia Orfebres, donde venden complementos en plata de ley y esmaltes al fuego con motivos nazaríes.

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